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Aug
17

And so it is the third night. I write to you again from inside a tent, in order to avoid the bugs, after a game of Farkle.

Bird Watching in the Morning

Bird Watching in the Morning

The morning began leisurely again, some time around eight. Breakfast ensued, in a somewhat piecemeal manner amongst the five of us, but it was accomplished yummily, and with a plethora of birds to entertain us. (My breakfast was lentils an eggs, with chipotle seasoning. Yum!)

Ware the Gills!  Bad Mushroom!

'Ware the Gills! Bad Mushroom!

The tents had to dried a bit after the night on the meadow, but we eventually dried everything off, packed up, and started down the brook that we had camped along. I got to take the lead down the meadow, as I was part of the team that wen exploring yesterday. It felt like a quiz; Steve said it was. Fortunately, there was only one spot where I was distinctly uncertain which way we had gone. But there were mushrooms to explore on the path (we learned about amanitas), and a lot of wildflowers to “ahhh” over.

A Bee, Getting Loaded on an Aster

A Bee, Getting Loaded on an Aster

And so we eventually made the main trail again.  It wasn’t a very long distance to our turnoff, but as there were so many things to examine along the trail, it certainly took some time to traverse.  Fortunately, we didn’t have far to go until Angel’s Staircase – 1000ft in 1.6 miles, with most of the elevation gain being in the last mile.

Starting up Towards Angels Staircase

Starting up Towards Angel's Staircase

The ascent started through wide open meadows, showing us yet more blooming flowers, and began heading up hill, up switchbacks, up some distinctly steeper terrain. It was a lot of switchbacks, along the side of a mountain, with trees (and flowers amongst the trees), which left the visibility to the goal a little lacking. I found that particular climb a bit sloggish, though the views were great over the valley we were ascending above, and I could see Jeanne and Bill below me on some of the switchbakcs. About two thirds of the way up, I could finally see Sue ahead of me (Steve already long gone, doing his best “mountain goat climb” impression). Once I could see her, and start to see the end of the climb, it felt a little faster. I wasn’t any easier terrain – it was still steep and was now all somewhat unstable rock – but the goal was in sight.

Trying to Identify the Mountains - So Many Mountains!

Trying to Identify the Mountains - So Many Mountains!

It wasn’t too long until all five of us stood atop a little plateau, over a pass, looking down at the meadow of our campsite, the path we followed skirting the valley, and the base of the mountain we had just climbed. And looking up at the length of the rugged North Cascades, and the comparatively rolling Central Cascades. The view from 8000ft enabled Sue and Steve to definitively identify Rainier and Glacier Peak in the distance, and speculatively identify Mount Stewart and the range sheltering the Enchantments, where we all backpacked two years ago.

Savasana on the Pass

Savasana on the Pass

The updraft off the valley was chilly (to me, anyway), but the sun came out to warm us. A leisurely lunch and rest followed the wonder of the views, and we took the time to take a number of pictures, including ones of me doing yoga poses at the top of the pass.

Eventually, we carried on, skirting just below the ridge from the pass we came over, affording us views to another valley we were not heading into, which held a cirque with a lake surprisingly high up the valley walls. It wasn’t very far to another pass into the valley we were descending to, overlooking Eastern Washington. We had a vey steep descent here, which felt surprisingly stable, given I had left my trekking poles at home. Most of the way down the valley, we had views of our first (and potentially day’s) stop, Cooney Lake.

Surprise! A Lake Half Way Up the Mountains Side

Surprise! A Lake Half Way Up the Mountain's Side

Cooney Lake

Cooney Lake

While there had been discussion over where to go for the evening’s camp, all we had agreed on was making a decision at Cooney Lake. We walked over to the far side of the lake, to a rocky outcropping that Bill had camped on previously. Before making any decisions, Steve tested out the temperature of the water, and Bill joined him. As Jeanne let me borrow her pack towel, I jumped in too, or at least had planned to, before stepping in to the lake to find out it was rather quite chilly indeed. Of course, the bright purple Crocs, bright pink kinesio tape on the knees, and matching green underwear/swimsuit was a hit for the “trail fashion” fans.

Cooney Lake Swimming Hole

Cooney Lake Swimming Hole

After coming out if the water, though, we really did have to figure out where we were going to camp. Much discussion ensued. Much indecision ensued. Much weighing of one factor and another ensued. Many opinions ensued; more opinions than we had people, or choices. Fortunately, Bill made an executive decision, echoing the prevailing sentiment at the moment (as I recall it) to continue on to Martin Lakes. After all, the locals raved about Upper Martin Lake.

So we carried on, losing a fair amount of elevation gain, traveling a fairly nice path under to loosely canopied forest. There were occasional streams to cross, and gentle breeze to cool us off. Once we made the intersection to head up to Martin Lakes, however, the ascent began again.

Martin Lake, the Second

Martin Lake, the Second

About a half mile of steady uphill later, we found ourselves at the first Martin Lake. I had been in the lead and was oblivious to missing a fork in the trail, heading to a horse camp – a very large, spacious horse camp with a large fire place. But I was able to find the group again, retracing my steps and heading down the other path. And so we found the highly recommended Martin Lake. It was under-inspiring, to say the least. But we had heard that the second Martin Lake (there appears to be a chain of four of them) was better. And so we continued. The second lake was not an improvement. So where to camp?

Heading to Martin Lake, the Third

Heading to Martin Lake, the Third

Out of curiosity, a few of us wanted to explore the slightly higher lake, to see if maybe there was something worth while. As Sue was not interested in more elevation gain, and was interested in the many birds around the lake edge, she stayed behind with our packs as the rest of us headed farther ahead – along a tiny trail, having mislaid the larger one, until Bill bushwhacked his way back up to it. Eventually, we came out onto a large meadow, with slight valleys off to either side, and a suspicious rise just off to the left of the trail. Bill crossed overland to it and let out an exclamation. I headed over, and here right in front of us, surrounded by steep walls of wildflowers, was a crater of a lake, dark water shadowed by the mountain rising up from the banks.

Reflection in the Third Martin Lake

Reflection in the Third Martin Lake

The Crater Like Martin Lake, the Third

The Crater Like Martin Lake, the Third

Unfortunately, the ground all around this gorgeous, and – in my limited experience – unique lake was a rocky, lumpy, gangly meadow, with no real good place to pitch a tent. And though I could hear the outlet to the lake, we had not found any good source of water. Steve asked a few questions about the horse camp I had seen earlier, and we cane to a partial group consensus to head back down that way. We picked up Sue and our packs on the way down, but found an even nicer camp before getting all the way to the end of the lake, and stopped right there.

Dinner at the Last Camp

Dinner at the Last Camp

We unloaded, bug blocked since the mosquitoes were making their best showing of the trip, and pumped a whole bunch of water before preemptively putting up the tents and then making dinner. Much discussion over the quantity and preparation of dinner followed, and I’ll bet that never before had the preparation of a Mountain High meal required a cook and two sous chefs. It was apparently quite tasty and cooked just right, however. (I had lentils, chicken, and a veggie spice mix that was awesome!)

After dinner was put away, and the evening ablutions completely, all five of us squeezed into my tent to play Farkle(tm – apparently). It’s a fun, dice based game that is something of a cross between poker and Yahtzee. The game kept us up later than any other night so far. Bringing me to – an hour later, the end of this trip report, on more visit to the trees, and then some shuteye.

Aug
16

This trip report, or at leas this portion of this trip report, is brought to you from the middle of a meadow field filled with wildflowers, fed my a meandering creek. (Which, I might add, is giving life to the mosquitoes buzzing around me, but no one else.)

It was a very long night – filled with sleep and only two pee breaks. A leisurely breakfast ensued, taking care of various packing and checking on a leaking ThermaRest. But two hours later, we were on the chilly trail, with overcast, puffy clouds occasionally letting the sun filter through.

Bikers, of all Kinds, at the Top of Horse Head Pass

We went up over Horse Head pass, meeting a few motorcyclists at the top. It was definitely a slog to get there, but not a terribly long one. As we chatted with the motorcyclists, two mountain bikers came to join us and took a short break as well, and we watched as they and the motorcyclists took off.

Posing Marmot

Posing Marmot

And so we headed down towards Boiling Lake, down the other side of the pass, with yet more zigzagging. A few turns later, we had a powwow to figure out what path we were going to be taking towards Angel’s Staircase, either around the lake in a longer, more level path, or a reopened sheep’s trail over another saddle. All along that section of decent towards Boiling Lake there were a bevy of
marmots, some looking for food and checking us out, and others mating.

A Rare Picnic Table

A Rare Picnic Table

After finding the path to the saddle, we found a fabulous horse camp, complete with extremely wobbly picnic table, and had a leisurely lunch with the sun breaking through just as we finished. (The sun was not to last long.). That particular ascent up the sheep path was definitely a steady climb, mostly right up the hill, but the saddle we were heading towards was visible the whole way.

Gorgeous Meadows Deserve a Admiration Pause

Gorgeous Meadows Deserve a Admiration Pause

Babbling Brook in a Field of Wildflowers

Babbling Brook in a Field of Wildflowers

We found the gorgeous meadows on the other side of the saddle, fields of flowers just before the minor path met back up with the major ones. A babbling brook, which really looks and sounds just like a babbling brook should, comes though much of this meadow. Another bevy of marmots was wandering through this field, some posing, some galloping through the field.

A Break on the Meadow

A Break on the Meadow

We had another powwow about where to camp, with many options available to us, and the majority of the group wanting to camp on the meadow overlooking the North Cascades. The water, and the possibility of climbing Martins Peak, seemed to settle this issue. Of course, the inertia of already being on the ground helped. There has been enough inertia at this point that the peak isn’t going to happen, and instead we’re setting up tents, in case of weather. Thus ends the 3:20pm update, frozen fingers causing significant typos.

Aug
10

After some false starts on the coordinating, and prompted by a NWHikers trip report, Friday 8:00am had Sue and I in her car, on the way to Rainier.  The forecast called for 30% chance of rain before 11am.  Hah!

There isn’t a whole lot to be said about this particular trip that can’t be better said by pictures.  The road – long and washboarded though it is in sections – was just fine.  The trail was a bit of a rolling romp through the mountains.  And the weather was low-lying clouds and mist/drizzle all day.  We had a wonderfully leisurely pace and portions of the trail that was bustling with people – mostly backpackers, a few climbers, even a couple of skiers, and a handful of very brave (or simply very unprepared) dayhikers with tiny packs, jeans, and cotton.  I was happy for my gortex hat.

After much meandering through very traditional Pacific Northwest forest, with moss hanging from every available trunk and branch, we found a couple of fields of rocks, and a lot of small waterfalls along the trail.  Of course, we knew we were headed to a huge waterfall, but didn’t know whether or not they were related.  Eventually, a small sign along the trail pointed us to the right for a tenth of a mile, to Spray Falls.  And oh my, what falls they are.  You can hear them from everywhere, smell them from a distance, and feel the mist before you can see them.

Spray Falls

Spray Falls

We posed for a few minutes to get pictures, to admire just how far up the falls keep going, and to see if we could get across for some better angles for our photographs.  Perhaps if I had a change of shoes with me, I would have attempted the crossing, but instead we tried climbing up for a while – and I do mean scrambling more or less vertically – but found our path only moving us away from the falls, and too steep to feel comfortable continuing.  So on to the park.

Once past the falls, the trail does indeed climb a bit more steadily.  It’s a well worn path with lots of exposed slices of rock, and gnarly roots to trip the unsuspecting.  More than once, I wish I had brought my poles, which I had gotten out of the habit of using since I started taking my dog on hikes.  But it was worth it for the lush waterfalls and the park waiting for us.

As with all hikes that have a “destination”, if I haven’t been there, I always wonder how I will know the destination when I see it.  This time, there is no question.  You literally round a corner in the trail, and emerge from thick tree cover to an open field full of wildflowers and a stone path right through it.  And, of course, the first thing we must do is “oooo” and “aahhhh” over the lush, multi-colored, riotous flowers.  That is what this hike is about, after all.

It’s deceiving, however, as the field is pretty big, but doesn’t scream “Park” to you.  So, there must be more.  And more there is.  The stone lined pathway continues for at least a mile, showing you fields of lupine, gentian, mountain heather, mountain laurel, paintbrush, lily seed pods, and so many more flowers that I have forgotten the name of since Sue told me.  She’s read up on her flowers, and is quite familiar, so we took plenty of time lingering over the bright colors and lush size that the flowers were displaying.  Not to mention merely that so many were in bloom at once, and the show looked ready to continue for a little while, anyway.  We even saw a marmot – certainly not sunning, but hanging out – on a small ridge watching the humans pass on the trail.  He seemed quite content to just stay there, and let the mist coalesce around him.

Eventually, as must happen on all hikes, we turned around.  The weather had offered a bit of clearing, and was still quite damp and misty, but wasn’t heavily raining.  The time pressure meant that we did indeed have to turn around, but we did at least reach the snow fields that were still along the trail.

We continued to have spurts of complete isolation, and then run into medium sized parties one after another.  Some were coming out, some were coming in.  All had different destinations, and it was fun saying hello.  The rain started to come down a bit harder.  It hardly mattered, as we were so damp by then that it didn’t really get anything more wet.  The only trouble was keeping the glasses dry, and fog free, so that you could see where to go.

We took our time on the way down as well, particularly exiting the park.  Captured more pictures of the lovely flowers that were just endless.  The mist settled a little closer, but there was nothing for it but heading back.  We encountered a couple people who were doing some variety of loop – some just ending, and some just starting their journey into the four days of oncoming rain.

But we made our time commitments, and were back to the car (and, in my case, changed into dry clothes), and on the road by 4pm.  A wonderful, if thoroughly drenching, day.

And it is well worth heading over to My Flickr Spray Park photo set to see the other 70 photos and videos.

Aug
07

Trail Sign to Stevens Pass

As always, more pictures available at: Kendall Katwalk 08-07-09 Flickr Set
Class this morning assured that I would be up early, but the lingering migraine made me uncertain.  So set auto-pilot to on, pack up the gear, and get in the car.  Fourty-five minutes later, I’m at the trailhead to PCT at Snoqualmie Pass and hitting the trail.

Bleeding Heart Gone to Seed

Bleeding Heart Gone to Seed

The cool weather was a nice change after last week, and a number of folks appeared to have taken advantage of it, as I saw a number of backpackers coming back to the trailhead, some had fishing gear, some had huge packs, but all were in good spirits.  The abundant fields of flowers were certainly something to keep them in good spirits.  There were lots of familiar flowers, many still covered in mist from the low lying clouds of the evening.  Interestingly enough, they had started to go to seed in a number of cases.

Fields of Wildflowers

Fields of Wildflowers

The low hanging clouds stuck around all day, keeping the temperatures cool, and creating very ineresting formations in those clouds as the warmer air lifted up from the valley floor and making a show throughout the day, all over the valley.  It helped to keep the bumble bees happy, as they had field after field of flowers to feast on, even over the boulder fields.

Small, Intriguing Cairn

Small, Intriguing Cairn

These boulder fields may be my first of the season, and they were real, honest to goodness boulder fields.  Unlike my last trip three years ago, when there were more cairns, there was only one there today, but it was a very interesting one.  Throughout the whole trip, birds were singing loudly, but they got even louder across the boulder fields, and joined in with the pikas.  You could see a pika scoot along the rocks every once in a while, but they mostly stayed well out of site.  I’m pretty sure that I heard a marmot whistle as well, on the upper boulder field.  And, of course, the requisite chipmunk along the trail, of course, and various insects.

Chipmunk with Full Cheeks

Chipmunk with Full Cheeks

Cricket, Staying Surprisingly Still

Cricket, Staying Surprisingly Still

It was lovely to be able to take the time to take pictures at my leisure, having seemingly all the time in the world to go through my battery and memory card. It also gave me time to notice some interesting things – particularly that areas of the ground seemed wet. But only under trees. At one, it almost felt like there was a little bit of a waterfall that ended just at the trail. Higher up the mountain, I figured out the deal – the trees were condensing the moisture out of the air and causing it to rain, but only underneath the trees. You could stand there and watch it “rain” (albeit very slowly) just underneath some of the trees. I’m sure some particular configurations worked better than others, but it was really pretty cool.

Join me for the approach up to the Katwalk:

Dramatic Katwalk Pictures

Dramatic Katwalk Pictures

Even after reaching the the Katwalk, the tumultuous clouds had not disappated, providing an interesting backdrop to the narrow walkway and steep cliff falling away below.  I paused for a little while, in the chilly temperatures and stiff breeze, taking pictures, taking a snack, and chatting with the handful of people who were coming through from the north.  There were a few who had just come in for the day hike, but mostly folks who had been overnighting somewhere north, or farther along the PCT.  Definitely a lot of fishing gear – some of which had seen better luck than others.

A Very Tasty Salmonberry

A Very Tasty Salmonberry

When it was finally time to turn around, I let the camera have a bit of a rest.  Partially to stay warm, but partially to get some trail behind me, I hoofed it a bit more quickly.  Everyone so often, the sun would break through the clouds, and provide a little bit of warmth, and a lot of brightness.  With so many lovely views on the way back to the trailhead, it was hard not to stop and take a picture, and eat a salmon berry or two.  And perhaps chat with the folks hanging out for a rest and pet the dogs who were quite well behaved.

Sun Break

Sun Break